![]() Some will say it is sufficient, which it is but just barely. That's the ragged edge of freezing subject motion and camera motion. I think your shutter speed is low, 1/180. ![]() Likewise adjusting white balance, which you can do with no limits in RAW but which doesn't work beyond a certain limit on a JPG. Boosting exposure in in post can hurt the image, but you get much more freedom to do so in RAW than in JPG. Shoot in RAW but still try to get it as close to right in camera as you can. A newer crop camera or a full frame camera gives more high ISO image quality which is the main reason I upgraded. Then, when you add noise reduction to tackle the grain it does so at the cost of removing even more detail. It also reduces the amount of fine detail you have in the image. High ISO not only adds noise and grain, which is easy to deal with. ![]() (Cue the comments on how this is too conservative, that a 5x7 print looks great at higher ISO than what looks good on a 30" computer monitor, or that I am deficient in my post processing skills or tools). I preferred to stay at ISO 100 or ISO 200 if possible. I had a T3i and to me it was only good up to about ISO 400 at most. The little shift can be enough to foul the focus. If you prefer not to have the eye dead center in the shot just frame a little loosely so you can crop to reframe in post.ĭon't get in the habit of doing "focus and recompose" as it will fail you when you need critical focus at large aperture. That should be good focus for a portrait. ![]() Place that point over your subject's closest eye to the camera. In AF try toggling through the AF point selection and select the center point only. This could be why you get better results with manual focus. Equally likely is that you might be letting the camera choose which AF point(s) to use instead of picking one yourself. You need about 1/60th at the slowest and 1/100th is better for subject motion freezing if you can get it.įocus point selection. Even though your person is sitting "still" for you, he is still not rock steady. IS stabilizes camera shake by a few stops but not subject motion blur. My first guess might be your shutter speed isn't fast enough. You dont tell tell us all your settings (shutter speed, aperture and ISO). LOL If I change the settings for a brighter picture, it doesn't seem to matter, and I end up with a stark bright capture. Auto focus tends to be a joke at focusing on what I want. and to be honest, manual focus gives me clearer shots of what I want. I don't care if I manual focus or auto focus (usually when I need to go real high or real low, or have a large group). and just want ALL my pictures clear!!! I use a T3i, and the IS is always on on my lens. any respectful suggestions are appreciated. so I am wondering if it would be something in the camera itself causing it? I can literally focus crystal clear on their eyes and it seems like something else comes out clear instead, like it shifts, regardless how gentle I am. I see it happen with both my short and my zoom lens. I use the viewfinder and usually shoot in M mode. Even in super sunny (with a hood) light I will get slightly blurry photos at times. Midroll rewind enabled.I have been struggling to get all of my pictures crisp! I will find some that are perfect and they excite me!!! But then I find something like these and cannot figure out the issue. Counts down during film rewind.Īutomatic with built-in motor. Film advance speed: 1 fps.Ĭounts up during film advance. Automatic film advance with built-in motor. Red-eye reduction lamp provided.Īlign film leader at mark, then close the camera back for auto loading. Electronically-controlled automatic flash. Fires automatically in low-light conditions. Film speeds: ISO 100/200 and 400 (with DX code)įixed built-in flash. Metering range of EV 10.5 – EV 16 (at ISO 100). Green OK-to-Shoot LED (lights for OK-to-Shoot and flash ready, turns off when battery is exhausted) and red-eye reduction lamp (lights and then blinks for single-shot or double-shot self-timer operation in EE mode).ĬdS cell for full-auto simple program EE. Built-in electronic self-timer (Two consecutive self-timer shots can be taken by pressing the self-timer button twice.). Fully automatic 35mm Lens-Shutter fixed-focus cameraĮlectronic three-speed (1/45 sec., 1/60 sec., 1/250 sec.) shutter and aperture.
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